Horix/Hader Bar Instructions





The Hader Bar may be utilized for a one piece casting (FIG 1a-b) or placed between abutments (FIG 1c). 

A wax try-in is done first to determine the best esthetic and functional placement of the bar and clips (FIG 2). 

Determine the path of insertion of the prosthesis.  Wax up the post-copings, or crowns.

Reduce the bar in height and length to assure a proper fit between abutments.  Grind the "skirt", or gingival part of the bar, to relieve the papilla.  The minimum height of a Hader Bar is 2.5mm.  Use the Paralleling Mandrel for constructions with multiple small bar sections.



3 Plastic-Wax

4 Plastic

The Hader Bar is available in Plasti-Wax (FIG 3) and also Plastic (FIG 4).  The Plastic-Wax is very pliable and easy to contour to fit the case (place in warm water to adapt), burns out much cleaner, and works well with fast set investments.

 If necessary, fill up the space between the model and bar with wax to provide for a pontic-like gingival contact.  Attach the bar to the abutments..



When spruing a Hader bar, it is recommended to sprue to either the gingival of the bar, or outside the functioning area of the bar (FIG 5).  Spruing the occlusal of the bar will necessitate rubber wheeling the retention part of the bar, thus altering the size and fit.

Invest, burn-out, and cast.  The bar is cast in any alloy of choice.




Finish and thoroughly polish the bar.  Do not remove too much material from the bar as this will considerably reduce retention.  After try in and a pickup of the bar in a new impression, place the bar on the model (FIG 5a-b).  Place the Hader Processing spacers over the bar.



Fully seat the green processing spacers on the bar, and trim the spacers to the vertical height of the Hader Bar (FIG 6-7).

Why use the Processing Spacers?

The width of the "tail" of the green processing spacers matches the widest part of a Hader clip.  This allows easy insertion and removal of the actual clip, and more importantly provides a "tunnel" that is wide enough for removal and insertion of the prosthesis.

The left side of this picture shows the tunnel created using the processing spacer.   The flange of the clip has room to flex out over the height of contour and engage the Hader Bar.

The right side of this picture shows the problems that may be encountered when not using the processing spacer--the clip is locked in acrylic; the flanges of the clip are pressed inward making clip wear very possible, and insertion very difficult or even impossible without breakage.  This clip can not expand, or flex outward while going over the height of contour of the bar.




With the processing spacers in place on the bar, use blockout wax, plaster, or blockout material of choice to blockout the undercuts of the bar.  Remember to cover the upper free areas of the bar and abutments.  Leave the processing spacers free of any blockout material (FIG 8-9).
10hader 10hader hous
Two different styles of Hader Metal Housings......

10hader measure


The Hader Metal housing (either style ) allows for an accurate seating of the Hader clip along with easy clip insertion, removal, and replacement (FIG 10).  Seat the Metal Housings on to the green processing spacers (FIG 11).  Process the acrylic resin, and finish the prosthesis as normal.

After polymerization, cut out the green processing spacers.  Insert the final Hader Clips with the Insertion Tool.  The clips must snap in audibly.




This cross-section clearly shows the function of the Metal Housings (FIG 12).  The Hader Clip, or female rider, is authentic Hader as can be seen by the word "HADER" on the end.  The yellow clip is normal retention, orange is increased retention, and white is reduced retention (FIG 13).

Would you rather process over an analogue bar? Click here for Reline/New Prosthesis instructions


The finished prosthesis

Please note the tunnel provided by the green processing spacers and the easy insertion of the clips due to the placement of the metal housings (FIG 14).